Traditional style
Classic style
Victorian style 1   and 2 (here)
  Victorian Pattern (Queen Anne)
Cottage style
Drip Edge and Valley Flashing

Details and Techinques:
  Boston Lap
  Top Course ("Reveal")
  Dip-Scoop-Slide (applying shingles)
  Sandpaper on a stick (trimming the edge)

Sales:
  Pine Octagon Shingles (1000):  (500)
  Red Cedar Octagon Shingles:
  Dye1 Reddish Brown:
  Dye3 Dark Grey:
  Copper Sheeting for flashing:

c.1880 photo of the Roseland Cottage roof

1845 sketch by owner, Henry Bowen

DHTMLGoodies.com Victorian style shingles with a flashed dripedge and octagonal cut ../../../RGT_Website_assets/ajax-loader.gif

DHTMLGoodies.com 50. The glue is stiff enough so the shingles won't easily be knocked out of position 50D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 51. I have chosen a straight-grained shingle to split for the start of the second course 51D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 52. My favorite way to cut shingles is with scissors 52D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 53. 53D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 54. A very thin line of glue 54D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 55. Leave a little sticking out for final smoothing 55D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 56. Less glue means less water and less curling of the shingles 56D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 57. I look to my set-aside pile first for shingles to cut 57D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 58. .. but this one is pretty wide so a shingle with twist won't glue here nicely 58D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 59. leaving a little for smoothing 59D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 60. Let the glue stiffen 60D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 61. On the third course I will have a fill-in shingle again 61D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 62. This time I will sand it to fit (100 grit) 62D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 63. A nice clean edge and a good fit 63D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 64. Let the glue stiffen 64D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 65. Cut shingles can often come from the shingles with more texture 65D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 66. The smaller they are, the less the texture effects how they glue down 66D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 67. That shingle had a lot of shape - now it doesn't matter 67D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 68. Once the glue is fully dry, we will sand the edges 68D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 69. start with a full shingle on every-other row 69D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 70. Narrower fill-in shingles can be square on the bottom 70D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 71. Cut them to line up at the shoulder 71D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 72. This will be the last un-cut course of shingles 72D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 73. Lined up with the guideline 73D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 74. the top full-course 74D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 75. Let the glue stiffen a little extra for this course 75D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 76. See the "Top Course" or "Boston Lap" links at left 76D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 77. leaving 1" of reveal on the next course down 77D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 78. Cutting shingles for the Top Course from the set-aside shingles 78D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 79. I will save the offcuts for starters on the next project 79D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 80. A fatter than normal line of glue 80D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 81. The top-course shingles don't press down to the roof 81D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 82. No chance to "Dip, Scoop, Slide" here, so be very delicate 82D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 83. lined up on top 83D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 84. A narrow fill-in 84D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 85. Let the glue fully dry - maybe even overnight 85D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 86. The glue is dry - sand the edges (see "Sandpaper on a Stick" at right) 86D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 87. Notice a slight extra shadow at the top of the first course
See the "Cottage" slideshow for details on that issue 87D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com 88. Thanks for watching 88D.png

DHTMLGoodies.com Next: Smooth the edges ../../../Buttons/ClickHere.png

This slideshow is a Demo of techniques - it is almost always best to do the shingling on a fully assembled house